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To set a boring bars diameter or X offset I usually actually cut a diameter with the bar. Jog the tool up to the part manually skim a diameter by manually jogging with the spindle running. Then jog back in Z without moving the tool in X! Far enough back so you can measure the bore. Then on the control your machine should have a teach function to set the X offset. This is the best way to manually set the X offset on any tool. You can do the same with a OD turning tool by cutting an OD diameter and mic the diameter and then teaching the X offset as well. If for some reason you can’t make a skim cut with your boring bat but you have a turn’ed diameter on the OD. You can carefully jog the boring bar up close to the part with your dowel pin on the OD hanging over the parts end just enough to touch the boring bar. Now carefully jog the bar in X till the dowel pin just contacts the bar’s tip. Then teach that OD’s diameter in X for that tool. This should set it reasonably close. Just set the wear offset smaller for your first cut. Then make the appropriate adjustments after the first cut. Hope that helps.

Thanks so much Peter! In fact just yesterday I did set up boring bars with the overhanging dowel pin and made test cuts afterwards and they were within 0.05 - 0.1 mm. But I would like that close to an order of magnitude more accurate. We do a lot of small production runs so reducing setup time is a necessity although accuracy is always my first goal.

I set my reference (the stack of gauge blocks) to the nominal dimension (usually the middle of the tolerance). This is where I adjust/set the dial indicators zero. I think what you may be referring to is where in the travel of that indicator I set this zero? These indicators have .050” of travel with a resolution of .0001” of each division and .010” per devolution of their large needle. With .01” for each division on the small needle for 5 divisions = .050”. So in order not to over travel the indicator and gauge. I set this zero point on the first revolution of the large needle. Or .010” into the travel of the indicator. This way when the bore is undersize I can measure it without running into the travel limit of the gauge or the indicator. This leaves me enough room/travel on the gage (.040”) to measure the undersize bore. If you set this zero say to the middle of the gauges or indicators travel you can’t measure it if the rough bore is more than .025” undersize. You will not have enough travel in the indicator or gauge. Also I always do this the same so I always know when the small needle is on its first division and the large needle is on the first revolutions zero in at my nominal dimension. It is possible to get confused and be reading your gauge undersize when the little needle is on any other division with the large needle on its zero. So to avoid that I always set this the same in any gauge I setup. I hope that answers your question. It’s kind of hard to explane in a comment like this.

@@EdgePrecision Thank you for your response, yeah I had understood that you had it 1 turn in in the tiny needle. My question was about setting the zero on the big needle(turning the window) I wish to zero it with a micrometer at exacly 3.000in to be able to measure an engine cylinder. But when I place the gauge in the micrometer to zero it the needle moves a lot depending how im holding it. Reading the indicator I can do no problem. Its really getting it zeroed accuratly that I need a little more explanation plz. Watched couple of vids but still quite unsure.

@@qaz3000 The way you establish you Zero on the indicator is to rock it back and forth in both directions/axis looking at the indicator while doing so. You will be looking for the most deflection of the needle on the indicator. What I would call the minimum null position of the indicator where the needle reverses direction. This will be a little tricky on the anvils of a outside micrometer because of their small size. It will help to lightly clamp your mic in a small vise (they also make special vises to hold mic’s) so it’s in a comfortable angle for this. It is hard to hold both points o the dial bore gauge on the mic’s anvils at the same time. So what I do is surround the one side of the dial bore gauge with the unmoving point with my fingers. Keeping it on the anvil of the mic. Then I only have to concentrate in the one side while rocking/ sweeping the bore gauge for the minimum/null reading on the indicator. This is a little difficult at first till you get the hang of it because the mic’s anvils are so small. It is much easer (and more accurate) to set a bore on a set of gauge blocks. You mentioned your size is 3.000”. Do you have any 1-2-3 blocks? If so clamp two parallels on the 3” sides so the project out a little. Say about 1”. Now set your gauge on the inside of the two parallels. You could mic the 3” length of the 1-2-3 Block and account for any deviation from the actual 3.000”. That would be easier than setting on a micrometer. Remember you have to sweep the bore gauge back and forth looking for the minimum size. It will be the most deflection on the indicator. You may have to move the indicator in its clamping mount to prevent over traveling the indicator or the gauge to achieve this.

@@EdgePrecision I have the micrometer in a vise like you suggested holding one side and rocking the gauge. Im looking for the absolute fartest that my needle would travel to turn the window and set the zero there (the biggest number that I can reach while rocking it)correct?? Thank you so much!

@@qaz3000 The most deflection of the indicator. Generally the indicators on dial bore gauges the numbers increase as the gauge reads larger ( the needle rotating clockwise) so you would be looking for the most counterclockwise rotation on the indicator. Or the minimum reading or to look at it another way the most squeezing down to a smaller size on the gauge (smallest diameter). So when you measure your bore you would put the gauge into the bore at an angle. Then rock the gauge more perpendicular to your bore till you get your minimum reading. You set the gauge on the mic the same way. But because the mic’s anvils are flat you wound first rock it one way say parallel to the handle till the minimum reading. When at that minimum rock it in the direction 90 degrees to that until you get the total minimum that is your setting minimum.

No I just made them for these videos. Sorry.

Yes I suppose you could as long as the 3D print is strong enough to withstand the forces on it.

@@EdgePrecision That's why the bushing, the forces on small diameter gun drills are not that high but too much for the raw plastic. I tried to drill straight trough the PETG too into C45 but ... the sounds were gnarly for a second and the hole was slightly wider on entry too (0,04mm wider about 3mm deep @14mm drill), it kinda works but i'd not try it in inconel or stainless. The one with the bushing worked flawlessly and held up 50+ parts after which the bushing got replaced, the printed part was still in good shape. The PETG also holds up really well in a oily shop environment.

This machine is a Mazak Integrex e650H.

Mostly Drillmasters. I have also used Star brand as well.

Il ne s'agit pas de la pièce, mais d'un accessoire permettant de fabriquer la pièce. La pièce que j'ai fabriquée sur ce luminaire était destinée à nos militaires. Je ne pouvais donc pas le montrer. Je ne suis pas sûr à 100% du temps que j'ai passé sur ce luminaire. Cela faisait un moment que j'avais l'impression de faire cette vidéo. Mais je me souviens que le travail s’est révélé globalement bon en termes de coût. Mais là encore, il s’agissait de pièces coûteuses en titane.

Je ne sais pas exactement à quoi vous faites référence dans cette vidéo. Voulez-vous connaître la quantité de liquide de refroidissement utilisée ? Si tel est le cas, lors de l'usinage de métaux, il est nécessaire d'utiliser du liquide de refroidissement pour éliminer les copeaux et garder l'outil au frais afin qu'il ne perde pas son tranchant. Pitulaire pour une perceuse à canon car c'est un outil à une seule flûte avec une flûte droite. Il faut donc beaucoup de liquide de refroidissement à haute pression pour forcer les copeaux à sortir du trou.

I run only ISO/EIA (G Code) programs on the Mazak Integrex. My machine is a E650 H machine with a 640M Pro control. First of all you Cam software has to be able to post code that is compatible with your machine and its control. Or you would have to know exactly how to edit the code to make it work. It's not going to be possible to run the machine on just any code. The mode you run in is the same as a Mazatrol program. It is how you select what you running (Not editing) program that determines if your running EIA or Mazatrol. On my control to select the running program. I would press the MEMORY key then the soft key PROGRAM then the soft key WORK No. you should get a popup window where you select a running program. (This is the same as you select a Mazatrol program). What you have to do is make sure your EIA program is in there (That folder on the hard drive) to select. There are two folders my control uses. C:\MC_Machine Programs This is for the running programs. And D:\MC_Backup\Programs This is where I can store programs in my control. So from my computer I send my program to this folder over an either-net connection/cable. But if your control has a USB port you could also copy and past it from a USB stick to that folder. Then in the control I use the PROGRAM TRANSFER soft key to move it to the running directory. To do this. First be in the manual mode. To get to that key first press the PROGRAM soft key. Then the PROGRAM FILE soft key. Then the DIRECTORY CHANGE KEY. Change to the BACKUP PROGRAM directory. Then high-lite the program number and push the PROGRAM TRANSFER soft key and input key on the keyboard. This will transfer that program into the STANDARD PROGRAM directory. (That's what it is called on the program transfer window). The running directory (Standard Program) has limited memory size so if your program is to large it will give you a error message saying you file is to large to fit. The Directory folder D:\MC_Backup\Programs has a large memory size to store many or all your programs. So store your programs there and just transfer your running program to the C:\MC_Machine Programs (Standard Program) only. I also leave my Renishaw probing programs there permanently. Also you need any sub programs your main running program may call in that directory or it will not find them. That's kind of a long answer also your control may use different directory/folders on it's computer to do this so you may have to determine that. Hope that helps Thanks!

@@EdgePrecision Thank you! Using Mastercam with In-House post, which according to forums should be the best one for this machine. Running programs through Mazatrol works, but it does not accept many standard G codes, like G54, G90, G91, etc. Hopefully it will accept these once I get it running standalone outside Mazatrol. This has the Matrix control, I usually edit the ISO program to make it work, but things like drilling cycles it does not like. Gonna have a crack at it tomorrow!

@@EdgePrecision thanks for the info and help, I've got this to run now, although I see my post is not optimal. However, I am able to run G54, but it only compensates in Z. If I try to compensate, let's say, Y, in work offset window, nothing changes. Any G-code or somethink I am missing?

You are running a EIA program? If so, in the program do you have a line in the beginning that is calling up G54 offset. Say like G00 G90 G54?

@@EdgePrecision EIA yes, not in the very begining, but after tool change, maybe 10-12 lines down. I have a line that says G0 G90 G53 B30, followed by a line G54 C0

Sorunuzu anlarsam. Kamera yazılımım için Esprit'i ve CAD yazılımım için SpaceClaim'i kullanıyorum.

Oui c'est le cas!

Pourquoi la lubrification est-elle importante ? Si vous parlez du liquide de refroidissement ? C'est la lubrification et le refroidissement. Le plus important est l’effet rafraîchissant du liquide de refroidissement. d'où le nom. Mais le liquide de refroidissement élimine également les copeaux/rasages laissés par les outils. Dans le cas des outils de forage, il les dégage du trou afin que l'outil ne reste pas coincé dans le trou. L'effet de refroidissement empêche également l'outil de surchauffer et de perdre son tranchant. Cela aide également à lubrifier l'outil (une perceuse dans ce cas) dans le trou pour éviter qu'il ne se grippe et ne se grippe dans le trou. Merci pour votre question ! J'espère que cela s'est bien traduit.

Ce type d'installation et de programmation prend généralement beaucoup plus de temps que la normale. Dans ce cas, j'ai d'abord dû corriger des erreurs dans le modèle solide. Ensuite, ce qui se passe généralement, c'est une expérimentation avec la configuration et les outils réels de la machine. Afin de savoir ce qui fonctionnera réellement avec la configuration des outils et des machines. De plus, ce type de parcours d'outil prend beaucoup de temps informatique pour traiter le parcours d'outil après avoir modifié les stratégies de coupe. Si je me souviens bien, j'ai passé environ une journée à faire en sorte que tout fonctionne comme je le voulais. Sur la programmation et la configuration. J'utilise le traducteur. J'espère donc que ça s'est bien passé.

I think if you watch the video after this one it will answer your question. I ended up making three coolant driven 90 degree heads because of other features on these spot faces. So the back spot facing tool wasn't needed.

Look at the date when I published this video. At the time there were some people that didn't agree with me. I wonder what they think now?

Thank You!

I plan to anodize black and clear. I wanted to try to do this myself. With that in mind I have got the necessary stuff to do so. I just haven’t got around to doing it yet.

It would need to be done with some kind of angle heads. I did a video called “Running a test part with the EL Tool” something like that.

Thank you! That's nice of you to say.

This piticular part was made from steel tubing. I don’t remember the exact size but it was around 4” OD with a .250” wall.

This machine is older and doesn’t have the dynamic offset option. So for this setup I positioned the part in the cam software in relation to the C axis rotation. But if you have dynamic offset option it would make things easier.

You are suppose to wear seat belts in the front seats. But in the back of a truck there are no seat belts. And everybody rides in the back of trucks even the police. Besides that they really don’t enforce the law about this. That said I have been pulled over for my wife in the passenger side not having her seat belt on. But we talked the cop out of the ticket and he let us go. In Mexico you live free and die, if you want. In some ways you are more free in Mexico than the USA. No government trying to protect you from yourself. Or to put it another way no politicians acting like they know better how you should live your life, then you do. That said don’t get sideways with the authorities, it will cost you.

@@EdgePrecision Thanks for the insightful feedback. It sounds like it is similar to the US of 50 years ago.

I'm from chihuahua, I never have been in guanajuato but it looks like cuba.

@@paestopagoelinternet330 I have never been to Chihuahua before. Some day I would like to go. I’ve also never been to Cuba so I can’t make a comparison. But in Mexico there is no city like Guanajuato. With its subterráneo túneles.

@@EdgePrecision exactly, that city is unique. is famous for mummies too. All mexico is interesting. USA is an amazing country too, unfortunely the crime and corruption, racism, drugs, cost living, etc, is growing up there.

No I just made them for the RUclips video. I’m in Mexico at the moment but when I get back I could send you solid models of the pieces. You could machine (or 3D print) your own set if you have the capability. You could also scale the models to a size you want. If you 3D print a set I would add a cavity for a weight in each piece. They would be to light 3D printed in plastic. Send me an email if want the models with a description of Chess set models. At peter.edge.pre@gmail.com

Using a profilometer is the most accurate method. If that can’t be done then usually a visual comparison to a finish standard is used. But that is more of an interpretive method. Up to the inspector. If you can cut the part in half and use the profilometer it would be the most accurate.

I think if you start with parameters you would use for 316 ss it would be a good starting point.

@@EdgePrecision thank you! MSC was saying somthing like 3.6 ipm .0005" per tooth.... I don't think that's right